November 10, 2012 – When in Rome
My days in Umbria pass too quickly and soon enough I find myself
(with much less misdirection) on a train to Rome. I’ve made a page long list of
things I want to see and had the sense to prebook my tickets for the Colosseum
and the Vatican a month or so ago. I’ve got seven days before I’m supposed to
fly back home to the States. I’m not sure it’s going to be enough time. I’m not
sure I’m ready to go.
I’m thinking about this, and about how to extend my
adventures as the train slows its way into the Roma Termini Station.
Rome.
I once wrote a scene in a book where four brothers do a
juggling act in front of the Trevi Fountain. It’s the first thing I go in
search of. From the train station I buy a ticket for the metro and take the
subway to the Barberini stop where I climb up the from the underground, pay brief
tribute to the statue of Triton, and wander down the old streets to the bigger
draw (sorry Triton). The idea for the Trevi Fountain was hatched up by Pope
Urban VIII in 1629 when he thought the current fountain lacked pizazz. He asked
the famed sculptor Bernini to sketch out some ideas, but the project fizzled
out when the Pope died. Eventually, in 1732, under a different Pope the statue
was put up to a contest and the artist Salvi won the commission. He died before it was completed (apparently
death was an epidemic of time) and Pannini took it in hand and finally finished
the thing up in 1762 (and we complain
about construction projects these days).
Due to its scale and impressive detail
it’s still considered one of Rome’s most famed landmarks.
I believe that as the
sound of voices and the splash of water hits my ears even before I come around the
corner to the plaza. It’s a madhouse. There must be five hundred people here. At
least. Everyone is scrambling to get their picture taken or to throw a coin
into the fountain. Local legend asserts that throwing a coin into the Trevi
Fountain will assure the thrower’s eventual return to Rome. I look around. There’s
no way my jugglers would be able to perform here (not easily) on this day. I
can barely make it to the ledge that overlooks the fountain from the right hand
side, much less to a space where I could perform a complicated juggling act. I
don’t even try to get down to the steps. I think about throwing in a coin, but I’m
not sure I want to come back.
I admire the stonework the best I can what with the shuffling
and edging- in distraction of humanity (and a horse) all around. I try to feel
something significant. But I just feel like me. Content, I make my way through
the throng, give a glance over my shoulder at the Fountain, and go to catch the
subway to my next stop.
So this is Rome.
If I ever get back to that book, I just might have to
rewrite that scene.
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