Just when I’ve begun to despair
(which is a bit of a dramatic exaggeration but only a bit) of ever going on an
adventure again, I somehow manage to invite myself or get invited along on my
mom’s birding trip/commemorative anniversary trip.
Mom’s going for the variety of
hummingbirds and some other photographic catches like the elegant trogon and
the yellow-eyed junco. I’m going for the mountains and the chance to officially
add Arizona to my visited-states list (I had a layover in Phoenix once but, in
the unwritten traveler’s code, airports don’t count as a location visit).
I tick off the days on my calendar
and wrap up my work as best I can. For once in a long time, I’m leaving all my
work behind. I’m taking a vacation. I can’t wait.
Finally, the day arrives. We pack
up the car, bid the house farewell, and zip away.
We drive across West Texas (which
is prettier than I expected), stopover in Roswell to check out the aliens (the
actual crash site is 70 miles away from Roswell, but Roswell has charmingly
capitalized on the occurrence, extraterrestrial or otherwise), and, after crossing
the full width of New Mexico, arrive in Portal, Arizona in time for a dark-cloud,
mountain-menacing, large-raindrop downpour.
We love it.
Welcome to Arizona.
After the storm has passed, leaving
the air cooler and the parched world water-touched, we unpack. Mom takes her
camera, I take my book, and we sit on the back porch and drink in the view.
The mountains calm something within
me. I settle and am soothed.
It reminds me of when I moved to
Colorado, those long years ago, and felt like I’d come home. Like I’d finally
come home.
I’m not meant for the city. Not
long term.
The days pass too quickly, of
course. But they are lovely. I spend the majority of time outside reading,
watching birds, lizards, clouds, and laughing at the quail. Top knots bobbing,
they come in like a committee let out of a conference room, making sounds like ridiculous
videogame creatures, and dashing around like they have important places to be
and essential actions to perform. I’m sure they do.
When they come, the thunderstorms
blow in mostly from the west, though one arrives with fury from the east, bringing
in lovely, lower temperatures and showy clouds.
The mosquitoes, as mosquitoes
should if they must do anything at all, only come out at dusk.
And then there is the hiking.
One day, I tag along with my mom to
a trail she’s said is supposed to be one of the best in the area for birding.
Not having done my usual amount of location research, I hadn’t known we would
be within a stone’s throw of the Coronado National Forest and the Chiricahua
Wilderness.
With the knowledge and the evidence
of both forest and wilderness in front of my face, I am filled with a sudden
trail-lust. Or perhaps it’s love. Perhaps it’s always been love. I want to walk
all these trails. I want to hike them until they’re familiar and
well-known. I want to summit each of these peaks and see the views from the
top.
This time, this day, this trail, we
trek like proper hikers, fording the river again and again. On occasion, I
leave my mom behind so she can stare into the trees until the bird she’s after
cooperates enough for her to photograph it. Moving ever onward and then back
the way I came, I breathe in the pine, the high-altitude air, and the spirit of
the mountains.
Perhaps inspired by a recent post I’d
made with the John Muir quote, “The mountains are calling and I must go,” or
perhaps only by a coincidence of timing, one of my friends, still in Colorado,
sends me a picture of a place we’d hiked together a lifetime ago which she, her
partner, and two of their kids have just revisited, and asks, “When are you
moving back to Colorado?”
Not soon enough. Maybe one day.
Hopefully one day. I don’t know.
But I’ve got some mountains now.
After dark, I slip outside, careful
to check for tarantulas, rattlesnakes, and other creatures, and stare up at the
sky. The Milky Way films over the star spangled and black velvet backdrop of
space like a wispy, elongated cloud. There is Scorpio and Sagitarius. In the
north, the Big Dipper is easy to spot as well as the Little Dipper which pours
into it. The familiar shape of Casiopeia twinkles back at me.
Out of the corner of my eye, I
catch the bright, brief flash of a shooting star.
The next morning, I drop my mom off
at a hummingbird site and go to take on the Silver Peak trail on my own.
There is no river to cross on this
side. The path is rocky. The shade sparse. The views spectacular. I climb
steadily up and up. I’m the only one on the trail. I’m the only one in the
world as the sun beats down upon my bare arms, marks my neck, and tries to get
my face where my ballcap doesn’t shade it enough. When I stand still, when I
listen, I hear nothing and no one until the wind makes the grass speak or an
insect goes buzzing by. The whitest cloud I’ve ever seen rises from behind one
peak, growing bigger and bigger.
I could stay here forever.
But I don’t.
Tucking the joy of the natural
world in around my heart, I go back down and retrieve my mom.
When we drive to the Chiricahua
National Monument to see the hoodoos, the changing mountains, the scrubland,
cacti, beargrass, prickly pear, cholla, and yucca is every Louis L’amour I’ve
ever read (I’m pretty sure I read them all). If I close my eyes (which I don’t
do since I’m the one driving), I can almost imagine I’m the cowboy hero riding
my trusted steed and following the tracks in the desert sand.
And if I’m not seeing and imagining
a Louis L’amour landscape then it’s Zane Grey’s Riders of the Purple Sage.
While I scramble up the large rocks
into the heart of the grottos and sit again in a blessed cathedral of silence,
my mom ambles farther down the trail to let fly a stardust handful of my dad’s
ashes. It’s their anniversary day. Fifty years they had together. Three years
now that my dad’s been gone.
The next day, my dad’s death day,
we, once again, take him along and drive to Paradise.
On the narrow, rocky road up, my
mom has to squeeze the car over to the very tightest edge as a truck barrels
headlong down the path our way. Coming alongside, with only inches to spare
between vehicles, the cheerful driver rolls down his window, asks us if we’re
looking for the Walker house (we weren’t, but we could be), says it’s great for
birding, tells us how to get there, and encourages us to talk to his wife
Jackie who will show us all around.
When he’s managed to slide past
without going over the side of the mountain or scraping his truck or our car,
he trundles down and we continue on up.
Two seconds later, we encounter
another car. This time, there’s more room though.
The driver rolls down his window
and with gushing excitement he and his travel companion tell us about the
lucifer hummingbird they’ve just photographically captured on an agave plant.
“It’s the bird of the trip, for me!
I can’t speak for him,” the driver says pointing to his friend. “To get it in
the wild, not on feeder…” He’s nearly speechless with joy.
Speaking over each other, they
spend the next expanse of time telling us how to park and then climb down into
the dry creek bed if we want to try to find the bird for ourselves.
But, having worn ourselves out the
day before at the Chiricahua National Monument, we are not wanting a creek bed
adventure today.
Instead, we go up to the George
Walker house and get taken in hand by Jackie who points out birds for my mom
while I sit and stare off into space, half listening, half watching, and very
occasionally saying something.
On the way out, with a view that
makes me catch my breath, we stop and once again, my mom lets loose another
cloud of my dad’s ashes to fly out and stay forever in Paradise.
Winding our way back down the road,
this time without meeting anyone else, we drive away from Paradise.
The last morning in Portal, as I’m
packing up, I feel sad. I didn’t expect to be quite so blue about leaving. But
I am because there are still trails to explore, birds to find, and mountains to
be made speechless by.
But for now, we have to leave it
all behind.
We drive away, saying goodbye to
the mountains as we go.
We drive back across the width of
New Mexico and into Texas.
Despite being horrified by the
crowded and unsightly cities of Sunland and Odessa, the trip is a success. Mom
got her elegant trogon and a number of different hummingbirds (as well as plenty
of other birds). We didn’t go up to a high enough elevation for her to find the
yellow-eyed junco. So, for that, she’ll just have to plan another trip.
And if I’m lucky, if I’m not
already in the mountains somewhere else, maybe I can invite myself or get
invited along for that too.